Joe's Valley

I know that it has been a while since anyone has been to Joe's Valley, but you can always sit around and think about how good it is. I mean, you don't have any thing better going on. Plus, I'm getting psyched up for Hueco and climbing is on my mind.

I love Joe's Valley.

I have a lot of pictures from going with Erin back in October that I never did anything with. It was a fun trip and every time I go to Joe's I end up like the place more than ever. It's really an amazing place to visit.

This trip wasn't the best for me personally. I was coming of a series of inures and arrived in Orangeville having climbed very little over the last 6 months. The trip also coincided with the absolute worst my elbow tendinitis has ever felt. Still, we had been planning this for months so we made the trek across the mountains.

I had a few problems I wanted to get on, but first and foremost was Gentleman Jack. This problem was a project for a while with a reputation for being pretty hard. It seems like better beta has been figured out and the problem has become a bit less intimidating with the grade ending up around V11.

When we walked up and first saw the problem, I was blown away. I love the feeling of coming upon a new problem and being struck by how beautiful it is. It's really a fantastic problem, but caused a lot of pain and failure when I tried to get on it. I was able to make some progress but ultimately got shut down. Getting back on this when I'm healthy is a big goal for my next trip to Joe's.

Ater trying Gentleman Jack, I took a rest day to let my arm cool off. Getting my ass kicked made me want to tone it down a little bit. The next day I went out to try a stiff V7 called Golden Plates. This thing either requires some sort of genesis beta or is the most awkward problem ever. It's honestly terrible and I wouldn't recommend it to anyone.

Just after stick the crux move and letting out a sigh or relief, my foot slipped off and my right pinky had all of the skin ripped off off in a single motion. I've never seen that much blood come out of one of my fingers. (insert joke) Sigh. Never again.

I spent the next few days spotting Erin as she crushed her way through Joe's Valley. In a few short days she sent some tons of new problems and found some great projects to come back to.

She sent K town Slab (V3), which had seemed impossible last trip.

We went out and checked out the super cool Boux Problem, and amazing V3 on sloping pockets with a scary top out. Erin sent the problem pretty quickly after figuring out the bottom moves.

Erin also flashed an amazing V3 in New Joe's called Desperate. I remember doing this and thinking about how scary it was. As I watched Erin go up it, I thought about how scary it is.

Prior to the start of the trip, Erin didn't think she would be able to send the Angler. I however, did think she would be able to send the Anger.

Erin also managed to get through he bottom part of the Bowling Ball (v4) several times, but couldn't quite get her hands on the next crimp. Next time...

Erin also quickly sent the scary highball Washed Out (V2) on the Crack Boulder. Very cool climb.

A lot of the trip was spent working Skins Game (v3) which was her project from last trip. Despite coming so close to sticking the deadpoint, this one stayed on the project list.






Another problem she came really close on was Super Sloper. She fell at the top several times after coming up with beta that doesn't use (FTW?) any of the slopers. So devious...


Area 51 also has a very different feeling if you have it all to yourself.

I did manage to get lucky and pull off a few climbs. Most of them were new (to me) problems that were fantastic lines.

Playmaye of the Year (V9) - Very Fun

Dirty Hairy (V8) - Fun and a little Highball

Gurkah Knife (V9) - Amazingly steep climb on pinches. I'm really surprised a problem this good isn't better known. I love this style of climbing.

Foxy Whore (V9) - JJ got me psyched to try this problem on my first trip to Joe's. We never made it up there and it kind of fell by the wayside. I'm very glad I came back to it.

Water Paintings (V7) - Super Beta intensive and lowball. It's also amazingly steep, with awesome holds. Reminds me a lot of Killed by Numbers.

I can't wait to go back. March anyone?