Saturday, January 23, 2010

Media? Nope, soon

Well I went outside in Eldo again today.  No more Hueco Tanks for this kid.  I am supposed to be going for a week plus back to the tanks with Cat, Thomas, Erin, and other fools.  Nevertheless, I have a new job, and need to figure out what is happening.


Colorado wise...  Thomas almost sent The Heist today, seriously inspirational.  Secondly, Colorado is way colder than Texas.  I saw Qigong v hardish? For the first time today. Seems kind of cool.  For me it looks like a new project.  Over hanging, crimpy, somewhat squeezy.  Very interested.

Cat and Bec both sent the Northwest Corner v5/6 on the Gill Block today, very cool to see.  Even though they are twins, they climb totally different.  Both Thomas and I are amused by this.


Thomas wanted a tick list of round one, and I normally don't give in too often, but here is what I did.  For the most part.


East Mountain
Friday
Warm up roof v4 (campus)
Repeat, 3 stars
Dragon Fly v5 Repeat, 4 stars, working the v9 sit. ( Top 3 climbs ever)
Green Horney Toad V5 Should of flashed, did crux, and dropped since I didn’t have a crash pad, on the highball finish. Did it the whole thing with a pad, 1st go!
Hobbit in a Blender v5 Dreaded foot slip on start foot on flash go. Sent first try without foot slip. Mega classic!
Hector in a Blender v7 FLASH! Could be soft, or about right? Idk, felt as hard as Punani?
The guillotine v2 Quasi highball v2 with a committing finish, quite possibly the best of the grade on East.

• I need to go back and finish Dragon Fly Low (v9). Not the best climb, but very, close.
• Notorious DIG v9, simple short, should send. Takes a lot of skin though…
East Mountain/ Spur Saturday
Moonshine Roof v4 Flash, coolest jug roof feature ever!
Moonshine Roof Right v5 Not as good as the 4, but very fun, elbow blow! OUCH!

To do: Better Eat your Wheaties, v8/9 pull harder on left, stand on foot!

North Mountain Sunday
Mexican Chicken v6 Dropped, need to top out, still valid but not as cool
Babyface v7 FINALLY! So good! Favorite climb ever?
Ghetto Simulator v3 Flash in tennis shoes, 30 feet plus, outstanding!

East Mountain – Monday
Sex After Death v8 Crimpy goodness, cool moves. (Prolly v7+)
Bad New Religion v8? Quite fun, felt these moves were more fun than New Religion (v6). Just not as obvious
Hi Pro Glow v6 Unbelievably cool, slopers, compression, double heel hooks. Semi tall, committing finish, satisfying.
El Burro v3(v4?) Repeat Fantastic, and super hard for the grade.

To do: The French Tickler v9
  

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